Reverse Agony Aunt #2

I need to buy a new (used) car. I am planning to spend about $2,000 to $3,000 on this car. Unfortunately the only thing I know about cars is that the one I currently have is buggered.

Any car-knowing people shall now please advise me what would be the best kind of car I could get for this amount of money.

My requirements:

1. It should be big enough for me to sit in. That rules out anything Corolla-sized or smaller. 2L 4 cylinders like a Camry or 626 are fine though.

2. It should work good and for a long time.

3. It should look grouse.

Go crazy with the advice.

Update: Also, if you live in Perth and would like to sell me your car for a bargain price feel free to tell me about it. I will pay cash on-the-spot.

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46 Comments on “Reverse Agony Aunt #2”

  1. Blandwagon Says:

    Autotrader.com has a darn sexy ’82 Commodore 5 litre V8 for $3000. Sadly it’s an auto, and will cost roughly a week’s salary to fill with petrol, but we can’t have everything.

  2. Chris - from thailand / HK Says:

    G’day Sam,
    Hope you’re well and enjoying the Perth summer.
    Why not get yourself a motorbike, I mean given our drying climate you can probably count on one hand the number of wet days and they’re loads of fun, I know a mate selling his ducatti….but probably closer to $7k then $3k….
    I’m guessing you still play online poker, if you’re ever interested in some face to face games with myself and some other chumps let me know.
    Cheers
    Chris

  3. chidori Ashi Says:

    Why dont we all petition the WA govt to build a descent public transportation sytem

  4. Mark Hill Says:

    Get an old VL Commodore, don’t wear a baseball cap or P-plates.

  5. chidori Ashi Says:

    I can sell you my old granddad’s bicycle if you like?

  6. AD Says:

    A ten year old ford falcon is great for this price. It fits the big guy in more way than one!!!!!

  7. jack Says:

    Not much joy there Yob, in the advice dept. I think AD has the right concept (big car) but Falcons are badly made and their technology is crude at the age of the car you can afford.

    First, think outside the square. If you are self employed and (sometimes) pay your own tax, get a commercial hire purchase (not a lease) and buy a near new car. I say a near new car because the moment a new car leaves the showroom it drops 12 per cent of its sticker price. But the car is as good as new still under lots of warranty.

    Take a figure of around 18-20 grand and you pay around 400 bucks a calendar month.

    The advantages are:

    1. you get the rest of us to subsidise you because you claim the interest on tax, and if you can make a case that your job/business means you have to drive around (which I guess in your case you do, checking on how the girls are doing through the night) you claim the rest of the payments. But for all that to work, you have to have a declared income and a bit of a tax problem.
    2. You get to ponce about a in a flash car. Verrry nice, high five.
    3. It never breaks down, no hassles, yuo just get in and it goes.
    4. The pigs leave you alone.
    5. You get to pick up a better class of chick.
    6. You can travel to Dumbleyung and return without breaking down at New Nausea.

    Near new cars you should consider are: Honda Civic but only if you could be bothered driving a manual, they are a dead loss in auto because of the relatively low torque of its high tech variable timing technology; Mazda 3, a Camry, Corolla or one of those Polish Holdens: ie. an Astra.

    However, if you do not pay much tax and you really only want to spend 3k then buy a biggish car as de man sed.

    Apart from the interior space, they have big engines which turn slower than smaller cars’, developing enough power to roll along without having to rev the shit out of them. This means that the wear on a car’s components that is 3000cc or more is a lot less than something 2 litres or less. But they use a lot fuel. This doesn’t matter if you are saving 5 grand and money on repairs, you are still in front.

    Falcons are cheap but ask yourself why… things fall off them and they end up costing you money. Commodores are a much better bet. If you find one with gas that is a good thing. The fed government will subsidise a conversion to gas too, but it may not be worth the bother because you will never amortise the extra cost in the life of a three grand shitbox.

    Magna/Verada is an option. For some reason the punters hate them and won’t buy them and they are decent transport and thus terrific value, particularly if it’s more recent model but then you are not getting much change out of 5 or 6 g.

    So that leaves us with a Camry (4 cyl). This is a truly boring car to drive but the only thing that ever goes wrong with them is front suspension which gooes soft and you need to replace the shocks. The 2.2 litre engine is the best motor ever put in a mass production car. I mean,ever. Cabs in Darwin and the NT are nearly all Camry.

    These cars will reliably go 300,000 km. The only thing that needs changing are the toothed cam timing belts. For 3 grand you can get an ex fleet Camry with less than 180,000 km on the clock. Go to an auction. Look for one with dings on the body but low km. Bent panels can be unscrewed and replaced cheaply from a wrecker, engines and trasmissions are expensive so always go for as low ks as you can afford. Look for a log book in the glovebox signed by a dealer because people are dishonest (sorry to break it to you, mate) so do not trust the odometer, ever.

    If you do go to an auction, do not buy right away but sit and watch and see what they go for. You may need to hang out there for a week or more to get the feel for the prices.

  8. yobbo Says:

    Thanks for the Advice Jack. A couple of points:

    1. I don’t pay tax. I play online poker for a living, and gambling income isn’t taxable.
    2. New Norcia isn’t on the way to Dumbleyung. New Norcia is North of Perth, Dumbleyung is South.

    So leasing a car is out.

    I have owned a VL commodore and a 1987 model Camry before. Both were fine cars and I’m not opposed to getting another one if that is the best bet.

    What about the Mazda 626/Ford Telstar line from 1988-1993? These fall into my price range. Possible problems include the auto transmission (which is fine because I prefer a manual anyway) and because they are Mazdas, parts are expensive. Any thoughts on them?

    If I went for a Commodore Should I get a high kms VR/VP/VN or a VL thats in good nick?

    I agree with you about Falcons, they are poorly put together and I don’t want to have to spend all my time getting the locks/door handles/mirrors reattached.

    Hondas seem to hold their price and I couldn’t afford anything newer than 1987.

    Just to throw one out there, what about the Volvo 740/760 range? How do they go at 250,000+ kms? They are in dealer shops now for 2-3k so I’m guessing “not good”?

    Any car I get is going to be a 5 speed manual if possible. Unfortunately 5 speed manuals are harder to find than autos.

    I guess fuel efficiency isn’t a big deal for me because I don’t do a great deal of driving anyway (I work at home). My main concern is that the car looks somewhat respectable and actually works, and will last for at least a couple of years.

    Which model Camry has the 2.2 litre engine? The last one I had was a 1987 model and had a 2.0. Is it the next model along? (1992-97?)

    All other things being equal I would prefer one of those 2.2 Camrys to a Commodore, but I doubt I could get one of them for under 4k. Any further comments would be appreciated.

  9. yobbo Says:

    Jack, I just saw this one in the quokka:

    CAMRY 1993, wide body, 5 spd manual, a/c, 15″ wheels, new shocks, new timing belt, gd tyres, lic, 216,000kms $2950.

    Thoughts?

    I think I’ll ring them tomorrow.

  10. yobbo Says:

    From what I’ve heard 5 speed manual camrys 1992-onwards are quite rare.

  11. Tex Says:

    How about an old Magna?

  12. jack Says:

    He, he, he, thanks for the geographic tip but this was a j-o-k-e. (Looks like I’ll have to pitch them a bit lower.) I spent time in and wrote a major piece for a magazine about Dumbleyung and its gross salinity problems, and likewise, I’d been to New Norscia, on assignment about White Wells station. And I still reckon you wouldn’t want to break down on the way to either place.

    Getting back behind the wheel – the general principle is that you want a car made since the 90s. That is because there has been a tremendous leap in manufacturing technology since the 80s (i.e. quantum leap) and the cars are much much better in every way and so even high-mileage vehicles are much more durable. 1988 was also when tariff regime was changed, but that’s another story.

    Put out of your mind the Mazda 626/Ford Telstar line. They were assembled at the troubled Homebush plant (not as good as Broadmeadows) and while good for their time are now nothing but trouble and v costly to repair.

    The VL Commodes were terrific for their time, light in weight with a Nissan 3-litre overhead cam donk that was unburstable. But sadly the body is now too ancient and will rust and fall apart. Forget it, it is too old for trouble-free motoring.

    Commodore value is the VR mark 2. The VR series had a wider track and better suspension and the car was sorted. For that reason, the earlier model, VN, is utter crap. VP stands somewhere in between, with a flawed auto tranny that leaked. Don’t get one either as transmission overhaul is about a grand.

    You’ll be able to get highish mileage VR with a 5-speed manual box in your price range, especially at auction.

    You can’t afford a Honda that’s any good. They are hi tech cars that are a nightmare with high kms. They rev too fast for decent longevity.

    Volvos are slow and awful as their big 4 engines were too small for the weight if the car. With an auto you’ll be outrun by kiddies on trikes. The V6 variants with engine derived from a Peugeot were shit and hideously expensive to fix. Get one if you are a masochist.

    The 90s model Camrys have the 2.2 litre engines unless they are V6s. You can tell which is which because the V6 have a “V6” badge on the rear and have poofy names likes Vienta etc. The 4 cyl models you want are designated SDV-10, SXV-10. The 1987 was an excellent car and the 2.2 engine is a slightly bored out version of the one you had. Yes, it is the next model along. The 1994 was called the “wide body” and is cheap because it is ugly and came in terrible colour schemes so nobody wants them. But you don’t care about that so they are value.

    Conclusion: go for a wide body Camry 2.2 with as low a mileage as you can find, and buy at auction as you will save a grand or two. The other alternative is to find a childless, feeble old pensioner with Alzheimer’s whose licence has been revoked and you can browbeat them on price. (In such instances the car will be unregistered and have a flat battery.)

  13. jack Says:

    The 93 wide body sounds good to me but it’s no bargain and check for proof of those clicks

  14. snuh Says:

    “I don’t pay tax. I play online poker for a living, and gambling income isn’t taxable.”

    probably not a good idea to admit this, as income derived from pretty much any activity will be considered by the commish of taxation to be taxable income, if that activity is done for a living.

    there’s not much law on whether the earnings of punters (as opposed to bookmakers — all the law in this area tends to relate to horse racing, but draw the obvious analogy — whose earnings obviously are subject to tax) would be taxable as income, but earnings from playing poker for a living would certainly have some characteristics of income (regular payments and not a one off windfall, derived from the commercial exploitation of a skill etc).

  15. andrew Says:

    New Zealand’s a good place for cheap cars.
    We are awash with Jap imports sly dealers and daft finance companies.
    You will get what you want for free here and the only cost will be shipping it back to Perth.

  16. jack Says:

    Sneh, I do not think the ATO will go after Yobbo. While, income is income, gambling and income are not the same thing. His living may be under the taxable threshold in which case he is entitled to make it tax free. He may have high expenses and net income may be 0. He may be just bignoting himself. His putative $3k shitbox is not evidence of living high on the hob and the ATO would need something a bit more to go on to launch an investigation. Yobbo blogging is not proof or evidence. Tell me sneh, are you conerned for Yobbo getting into trouble , are you a vigilante tax inspector protecting the Commonwealth revenue, or just a busybody?

  17. yobbo Says:

    To be fair I’m not making millions, but my income is over the tax-free threshold. Australian Joe Hachem won $10,000,000 US in the WSOP a couple of years ago and didn’t get taxed on it so I think I’m pretty safe.

    The reason I am only getting a shitbox car is 1. I don’t drive much and 2. I won’t get finance since I don’t have a job.

    Thanks again for your advice Jack. I’ll be taking a look at what is available this weekend.

  18. yobbo Says:

    By the way we’ve all checked on the case law and the only instances of the ATO going after gambling incomes was in the case of bookies.


  19. I drive a 1994 Nissan Bluebird. Crap name. Good car. They go (16 valve DOHC 112kw, 210nm at lowish revs – compare that to its Camry contemporary), they handle (all round double wishbones), they suffer from bulletproof reliability (mine’s pushing 300k and it’s still going strong), even the base model has enough goodies to satisfy (cruise, full elecs, really cold AC, really hot heater – that’s a big plus!) and they’re not that well known so you can pick ’em up cheaply.

    All I’d say is buy a manual. The auto Bluebird was pretty fancy in its day – had some fuzzy logic business that was the business at the time – but the manual’s more fun, as it always is regardless of what you buy. And there’s less to go wrong, which is also always the case whenever you buy a manual over an auto. Anyway, mid 90s Nissan Bluebird – highly recommended at your price point. Take one for a test drive.


  20. Ps. they look better than a Camry, too.

  21. jack Says:

    Bluebird is an excellent car (as was its incredibly reliable precursor Datsun Bluebird). But they didn’t sell in large numbers and therein lies the Afro-American in the timber stack: if you break down with something minor out of a metro area, a local dealer or servo will not have emergency parts and you are stuffed. In an Australian context, particularly in WA, it is not commonsense to buy anything oldish other than a Toyota, Holden, Sunaru or a Ford, unless you intend to drive only around Peppermint Grove.

  22. Swade Says:

    Saab 900 Turbo. Late 80’s early 90’s. You’ll find them in your price range and properly maintained (which isn’t as exy as people think) they’ll run forever. Get the manual, not the auto. You’ll get all the bells and whistles you want, a quick and economical 4 cylinder and it looks a helluva lot better than a Camry.

  23. jack Says:

    Not a very perSWADEing argument.

    A turbo spins around 20,000 revs per minute. Over 200,000 kms that is a lot of going round and and round. Average repair bill on a SAAB turbo? $2G.

    Apart from the notorious turbo heat (it had to be water cooled) and wear, there were brake calipers see:
    http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/faq/bu9000.html

    … and the fuel injection:
    “The electronic Direct Ignition module, a single component which sits astride the cylinder head of the inline-4 and incorporates functions of ignition coil and distributor wires, has been unreliable in the NG900 and later models. Failure is not repairable (the part, which is expensive, must be replaced in its entirety) and can leave the driver stranded. Many Saab drivers are known to keep an extra in their trunk along with their spare tire.” from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saab_900_(NG)

    I wouldn’t say a SAAB is good looking, except to wankers (for a definition see my earlier posts) who value the fact that this is AN EXOTIC EUROPEAN car.

  24. zoltan Says:

    My 2 cents – euro cars like volvo/fiat/citroen/saab are Xpensive when things go wrong –
    There’s heaps of cheap spares for Commondores and Falcons when they go wrong.. and they will.
    My choice would be –
    Toyota (reliable plus)
    Holden
    Ford
    Hyundai!!!

  25. Le Rev Dr Says:

    Brother Yobbo,

    I drive a sedate little 1.6 L Honda Accord hatch, 1983 stylee –
    one old lady owner, all log books, bugger all on the clock, $3k from a caryard –
    and, yes, I probably paid too much.

    nonetheless, ’tis a very sexy thang to behold
    and has all the luxury stuff & no stoopid electronics
    such as power mirrors.

    It is a car one has to *drive* rather than just get in & press GO
    & that’s a great thang.

    However, I have recently had some electrical problems
    and, after extensive consultation,
    the last opinion was “burn it!”

    Seems Hondas are magical cars –
    but only as long as they work –
    they are Hell to fix.

    SO,

    I picked up an ’87 VL for $1k (private sale, obivously)
    only two old gentleman owners, bugger all on the clock.
    There’s a bit of rust – mainly around the badging on the boot –
    but my “burn it!” expert says it’s the deal of a lifetime!

    The VL is a magical car
    thanks to the Nissan 6
    and sexy lines
    (and thanks, jack, for the gen on the VR)

    but bugger me it’s dangerous –

    SO MUCH POWER!

    And power steering makes things even more dangerous!

    No wonder kids are dying…

    Fire engine red, cop magnet, bogun magnet
    (my expert said “first thing you do, get a club lock, then a disabler,
    these things go like hot cakes”)

    The point I wanted to make though
    is that, compared to the Accord,
    it is shittily finished –

    it’s like a box with wheels & an engine

    wheras the Accord is actually a nice place to be for a while.

    Cars have become cheaper and more reliable
    but they are now lowest-common-denominator crap.

    I was out at a wreckers last weekend
    saw an unloved XJS
    and wept
    (a bit – but nobody saw…)

  26. jack Says:

    This is my last post on this topic (I prefer to write about Massenet than Nissan). There’s a good reason why XJS was unloved. How can you love a treacherous bitch that costs a fortune to upkeep. Yes, I know, there are fools out there. So, a general principle for those, like the mine host, are seeking cheap transport that is reliable: first, as Zolly correctly points out, stick to Ford, Holden and Toyotas if you know nothing about cars. Hyundais are okay if they are under 160,000 km, after that their engines magically turn into boat anchors. Fords are good as long as they are not made by Ford, ie. rebadged Mazdas such as the Mondeo, which was a badge-swapped Mazda 626. The rebadge jobs are always good value because they are cheaper version of an identical car. Mazdas are good cars. Australian assembled Fords with lots of ks are generally crap because little things go wrong constantly (engines and auto are strong) and that tends to shit you off if you want reliability. Lasers do offer value if you can only afford $500.

    If you are on a budget stay away from Jaguars even if someone gives you one, and stay away from European cars except for Peugeots – sub-200,000 km 505s, especially their tremendously useful wagons are fine vehicles. The 504 and 505 series Peugeots are incredibly long-lived, and because the cylinders are wet-lined, can be recycled forever as long as the body holds up. I would recommend a Peugeot if you don’t mind tinkering with them and know something about cars. The only problem is that you will eventually start going to Peugeot swap meets and turn into a bore and all your friends will eventually only be other Peugeot owners whose houses have Peugeot crankshafts on the dining tables among the KFC packets. Peugeot (or Pug as they affectionately call them) owners are like people who collect train timetables. I have owned two Pug 404s (best car ever made), three 504s and a 505. Changing over to a Camry was like kicking a smack habit. I got a life.

    Commodores. After GMH realised that punters wanted something better than the ancient red motor that’s been in since 1964, they panicked because they realised they had nothing that was any good in the 6 pot range. So they bought a Nissan 6 cylinder 3,000cc to put in their VL series (86-89). It made for a very good car.

    In 1988 Holdens released their VN Commodore. This was a new, wider body (basically the German GM product called Opel Senator) for which they raided the Chevrolet parts inventory for the 3.8 L V6. Incredibly and inexplicably, this was rather old-tech engine with pushrods activating the valves, hence a retrograde step to the Nissan engine which had a single overhead camshaft. When I say old-tech, I mean it, it was first introduced in 1962 as the Buick Fireball – where the engineers took a Buick V8 and amputated two cylinders. Mind you, it was an excellent engine, which has seen incredible development. By the time it reached the Commodore it was properly sorted (and would see further improvements with fuel injection advances) but the rest of the vehicle wasn’t. The VN was a dog. These things go cheap. Do not get one, otherwise you’ll be sorry.

    The VP was a great improvement but as I mentioned before, the auto transmission leaked, as the did the power steering. These things are expensive to recondition. It was only by series VR/2 that Commodores became first-rate vehicles. If you are after a good, large, reasonably economical motor vehicle, the VR/2 and its younger sibling the VS are very good, suprisingly economical if you do not floor the pedal to the metal and wonderful value 2nd hand because they are so numerous. Parts are cheap and if you blow a welsh plug in some god-forsaken hole like say, Wickepin, the local mechanic will be able to fix it in 30 minutes. Not so with an XJS Jag.

    The VT, a rebadged and re-engined Opel Omega, is also a top unit but they are still pricey.
    Withe Commodes always go for the most luxurious model you can score, ie. Berlina. The Executive models were fleet cars driven by young reps and therefore punished unmercifully and their kms were hard ones. The “luxury” variants were usually ex managing class cars or leased cars by people with some sort of quid like dentists or investment advisors and were serviced regularly and driven with some care. All this makes a lot of difference down the track.

    There are some eccentric second-hand cars worth looking out for. No.1 is the Korean Kia 2.7 litre diesel van. I’m no fan of Korean cars but if you have nowhere to live or need a place to have sex in privacy this is the item for you. It is incredibly well equipped, has a big strong diesel engine that is very economical and importantly, is not expensive. When new they were around $21,000, or about 10 grand less than a Toyota van. Look out for one if you need versatile transport. No.2 Mitsubishi Verada V6 (not the 4 cyl!). These 1990-93 cars represent tremendous value because you get so much for the dollar and nobody wants them – this makes them cheap. They are very reliable, quick and well equipped. No.3 Toyota Corolla. Look out for the 1.8 litre. Totally reliable for their size but there isn’t much room in the back these things are as boring as batshit. I’d almost say Subaru but the second-hand prices are an insult to sensible folk. They are excellent vehicles but overpriced because yuppies love them. Sayonara.


  27. “I prefer to write about Massenet than Nissan”

    Jesus, did you really just write that? I’m sure you’re not embarrassed for doing so, but I’m embarrassed for you.

    Regarding the imported Nissan Bluebird U13 of the 1990s (my opinion on the original Aussie built Bluebird of the early 80s is diametrically opposed to your own – that car is a piece of crap with few redeeming features)

    “if you break down with something minor out of a metro area, a local dealer or servo will not have emergency parts and you are stuffed.”

    A few points:

    a) They’re very reliable so the risk of finding yourself stranded in a country town for weeks on end is not really worth worrying about
    b) Bluebird parts are cheaper than, say, the heinously expensive replacement parts for far more ubiquitous vehicles such as the Hyundai Excel
    c) NissDat spares has a truckload of cheap reconditioned spare parts for Bluebirds (and other Nissans) in the Perth metro area

    Basically, Sam won’t have a problem with spares if he lives in the metro area, which he does. So it’s not an issue.

  28. jack Says:

    I’ve got a CD of Esclarmonde with our Joanie, and with the volume cranked up it gives me a horn (in the privacy of my abode). Mate, don’t worry about being embarrassed on my behalf. Just relax, live and let live – it’s still a free country. You sound like a Datto 120Y driver going up-market, in other words, a dork.

  29. Yobbo Says:

    I have also had the unfortunate experience of being too enamoured of my VL’s power to know better. I was lucky not to kill myself. That’s the main reason I’d prefer a 4 cyclinder but I have probably grown up enough to not repeat my mistake.

    The problem with VLs is that they are so powerful and light that its sooo easy to fishtail them.

    Thanks again for your advice Jack, it’s been a great help.

  30. Andjam Says:

    To be fair I’m not making millions, but my income is over the tax-free threshold. Australian Joe Hachem won $10,000,000 US in the WSOP a couple of years ago and didn’t get taxed on it so I think I’m pretty safe.

    IIRC, I heard that, at the time he was doing it, he was classified as engaged in a hobby, but that if he were doing it as a business, he’d be taxed. I suspect you might be gambling as a business, so it sounds like you “ought” to be taxed, but the ATO haven’t been bothered doing so.

    If so, that could change without any need for the Australian equivalent of Bill Frist passing any legislation.

  31. polly Says:

    Mitsuibishi Magna from the mid 90’s is a really good buy in that price range.

  32. jack Says:

    So, as well as a yobbo you are a hoon and a lair.

  33. Loki of Condor Says:

    Jack, thanks for the tip on Esclarmonde. I’ve just ordered it from Buywell Classics. Love a good bit of opera when I’m out destroying the environment in my Landcruiser. BTW, camping at White Wells is one of my fondest memories. What were you on assignment about and is it possible to read any reports you wrote? (Especially if you wrote about the history of these places).

  34. Yobbo Says:

    I wasn’t really a hoon when I was young, just an inexperienced driver. I don’t what gave you the impression I’m lying about anything (except possibly that I know a little more about cars than I suggested in the original post, although I still don’t all that much).

  35. Loki of Condor Says:

    Yobbo,

    Jack said LAIR, ie two bob lair. None of us would call you a liar (dyslexic, maybe, but not a liar).

    cheers

  36. jack Says:

    Thank you Loki of Condor. Lair is a sadly neglected word these days. The Big Mac sez: flashily dressed young man of brash and vulgar behaviour. Is that you Yobbo? I do not think that is a complete definition and sounds a bit academic, are you listening Susan Butler? A lair is essentially a show off. Driving a VL, which had an inadequately tied down solid rear axle, combined with loads of power and a lightweight body meant that when you stepped down on the go pedal the torque (the twisting power of the engine) would pull the rear end of the car on the side on which the wheel first got adhesion, it would then loose adhesion spinning and the grip would “bite” on the other side. This cycle would repeat itself until the forward momentum and weight transfer of acceleration would force the weight of the car sufficiently on the rear to proceed rapidly in the forward direction. This explains the fishtailing where the rear end of the car oscillates from one side to the other amid blue tyre smoke and lots of noise.

    To do it the first time is inexperience. To do it subsequently many times over without loosing control of the car by appplying a bit of opposite lock on the steering in anticipation, thus throwing the car sidewise into a power slide is lairising. Those who lose control and run into the roadside furniture are mug lairs. I never called you a mug lair, Yobbo. I myself am a lair and proud of it.

    Re White Wells: “Stop in the name of Charles Darwin”
    Subhead: Reserve to safeguard WA’s fast-disappearing landscape.
    pp 99 – 113 issue 78 Australian Geographic

  37. Yobbo Says:

    Nah I never used to do it on purpose, but it was extremely easy to do by accident in the VL.

    My accident was because I fell asleep at the wheel. Not really anything to do with hooning, just stupidity.


  38. Mate, don’t worry about being embarrassed on my behalf. Just relax, live and let live – it’s still a free country.

    I wasn’t trying to censor you, I was singling you out as a pretentious tosser.

    You sound like a Datto 120Y driver going up-market, in other words, a dork.

    A dork? Meh, been called worse by better. Judging by what you’ve written, you’d be well advised to show a little more concern about the impression you’re giving off, rather than those you’re picking up.


  39. I’m no car expert despite owning more than I can drive at once and having driven loads. I used to get to drive all sorts of stuff through fleets and have owned a few over the years.

    When on the farm in my gilded youth as a family unit we rocked the Peugeots 402’s bigtime, stations wagons and sedans. I think overall we had six and ended up cannibalising them to keep others going. In those days at least you could fix the Peugots without much hardcore mechanical chops, the usual No 8 wire and baling twine and a screwdriver, shifter and pliers. Not sexy or lairish but go forever once you learnt the quirks. No reason to assume later models weren’t similar.

    I had a Datsun 1600 until it got written off – but I think most of them have been hooned to death these days.

    Have a squiz at some early Nissan Skylines – even ok at 200,000ks – you can expect to get 400,000ks and they are only around $2,500. Auto, 6 cylinders, roomy, reliable, go forever, fold down back seats, front seat have loads of leg room and will lay back almost flat for a decent sleep, and a Skyline even commands some rezpekt at the lights.

    Old Volvos are underrated for reliability, room, ride and value and great heaters but have shite air con and no pulling power, in all meanings of the phrase.

    For a bit of cheap overlooked luxury with the reliability of a Camry – go LEXUS es300 –1993 – , leather seats, etc etc space, 100,000 – 180,000 ks $6,000 – $8,000 or less. If you get a black one with black leather you can feel like a cheap version of Princess Di speeding through a Paris tunnel. ( Not THAT Paris tunnel you smutty boy)

  40. Tim Quilty Says:

    Thought I’d throw in that my Volvo 240 just clocked 600,000Ks last week and is still running strong. 24 years old tomorrow. We’ve really had very little trouble with it. Does it’s fuel pumps every 250,000, that is about it. It’s a family car passed down to me. Before that I had a 30 year old Peugeot 504, but passed it on to my younger brother who finally thrashed it to death.

  41. bradon Says:

    fuck it sam stop being a tight arse! Just buy a ss ute and smoke the shit out of it always works for me.

  42. jimmythespiv Says:

    Francis

    The Yob should be able to pull heaps of lefty or greenie chicks in a Volvo. But you do have to pretend you don’t find their views infantile, so maybe its not a plus for the Volvo after all – the choice being sex (but becoming a schizophrenic) or sound mental health and celibacy.

  43. lyndsay Says:

    i got a vn 5 speed manual with sports streering wheel sports exaust 16″ mags its red with part vn ss kit call me if u want it

  44. lyndsay (0409 684 518) Says:

    i got a vn 5 speed manual with sports streering wheel sports exaust 16″ mags its red with part vn ss kit call me if u want it i live in qld brisbane my number is (0409 684 518) and its also got cd player cheers

  45. princess josie Says:

    I’m confused (probably on account of my being a girl) but don’t yobbos already know about cars? And if you ask for car advise does that consequently result in the revoking of your yobbo status?

    I must admit I thought yobbos were interested in less things than you seem to be willing to spout opinions on. You cover all the bases from cricket to, well cricket but with lots of girly gossiping on your social life in between (oh, and the injustices of life).

    To me yobbos are about cars, ac/dc, tshirts, jeans and white trainers. Oh, wait, that might be bogans.

    Jack, I was one of those lucky reps to have flogged two VTs unmercilessly – but it sounds sexier when I say it.


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